Check out the ingredients! The country's first new peptide raw materials have arrived on the battlefield

"Oligopeptide-215" has completed the filing of cosmetic raw materials! This year, developments related to cosmetic raw materials have received particular attention from the market, and the filing speed of new raw materials has shown a linear upward trend. As the 12th new cosmetic raw material filed since 2022, "Oligopeptide-215" has undoubtedly set off another wave of heated discussions in the industry.

"Oligopeptide-215" joined the "Peptide" team

Many people may have heard the name "oligopeptide", but do not know what oligopeptide is. Especially in the face of polypeptides, oligopeptides, and peptides...it's just stupidly unclear.

According to reports, oligopeptide is a classification of polypeptide, the molecular weight segment is generally below 1000 Daltons, also called small peptide, oligopeptide, oligopeptide or small molecule active peptide, 2~10 amino acids are condensed with each other to form compound of. The excess is called a polypeptide, and a polypeptide with more than 50 amino acids is called a protein. The difference from other peptides is that they can be absorbed directly by the human body without being digested. Oligopeptides can be divided into: oligopeptide-1, oligopeptide-3, oligopeptide-5, etc., while peptides are aliases of peptides, such as oligopeptide-6, also known as hexapeptide or hexapeptide.

A reporter from Chao Watch inquired about the "Catalogue of Names of Cosmetic Raw Materials Used (2021 Edition)" and found that there are about 79 peptide raw materials. On the market, oligopeptide freeze-dried powder, pentapeptide face cream, blue copper peptide mask, soybean peptide protein powder, collagen peptide drink... It can be said that whether it is cosmetics or health care products, "peptide" is now also a competition among enterprises. The layout is a hot topic, and the research on the development and application of various peptide products at home and abroad is becoming more and more active. Now, "Oligopeptide-215" may soon be added to this team.

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According to the official website of the State Food and Drug Administration, the Chinese name of the new cosmetic raw material with the filing number of 20220012 is "Oligopeptide-215, and the filing date is June 14, 2022.

According to the technical requirements of raw materials, the INCI name of this raw material is Oligopeptide-215, and its source is a chemical raw material polymer. The purpose of use of raw materials is skin protectant, which can be used in various skin cosmetics. The raw material has now entered the monitoring period.

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Vicky became the only company that completed the filing of 3 raw materials

"Oligopeptide-215". Up to now, 3 new cosmetic raw materials have been filed, and the other 2 are "beta-alanyl hydroxyprolyl diaminobutyric acid benzylamine", which was applied for in 2021. Beta-nicotinamide mononucleotide (NMN) filed in 2009.

Such dazzling achievements are inseparable from years of accumulation.

In 2021, Vicky Technology will complete the filing of Erasin0003 raw materials. "No. 0003" is the first structurally innovative new raw material with independent intellectual property rights in my country's cosmetics industry since the implementation of the new regulations. It is known that it can promote the proliferation of fibroblasts and stratum corneum cells, improve the viscosity of cells, increase the synthesis of type I collagen, reduce the expression of elastase, and give the skin better firmness. The pre-development and preparation of the raw material took 6 years. Due to its source innovation and original structure, "No. 0003" is regarded as a breakthrough achievement of basic innovation in the industry.

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In 2022, NMN and oligopeptide-215 have been filed successively, and Vichy Technology has become the only company that has completed the filing of three raw materials.

It is understood that at present, Vichy Technology has realized a complete industrial closed loop of GMP production of polypeptide raw materials, production of freeze-dried powder, production and promotion of peptide and non-peptide raw materials, promotion of raw material technology, efficacy evaluation and filing. In the development of more than 50 innovative peptides, it has also reached cooperation with many national fashion beauty brands such as Marubi, Yunifang, and Plant Doctor.

Wang Hao, general manager of Vicky Technology, once said in an interview with the media that the company's layout of peptides in the field of drugs and cosmetics can be regarded as separate attacks and win-win cooperation. Although the research and development cycle of polypeptide drugs is long and the commercialization is difficult, this process will feed back their innovation and application research in the field of cosmetics. "In our research, we found that some peptide raw materials that are not suitable for use in the field of medicine can play a huge role in cosmetics; the product cycle in the field of cosmetics is fast and easy to implement, and it can also provide financial assistance for drug research and development."

Chao Watch also reported that in May this year, the Guangdong Provincial Drug Administration announced the third batch of "triple" (key projects, key enterprises, and key regions in the biopharmaceutical industry) innovation service list, of which Vichy technology projects were included in the list of key projects. Mainly for new raw material applications, no cosmetic items have been included in the list of key items before. The Guangdong Provincial Drug Administration also stated that in the next step, the bureau will focus on providing guidance for this project, so that more new raw materials can be approved and filed by the state. (For details, please refer to the key projects for the first entry of new cosmetic raw materials, and the list of the third batch of "triple" innovative services in Guangdong has been released)

In the future, we are also happy to see more companies focusing on the source innovation of cosmetics develop smoothly, and we are happy to see that they have more "speaking power" in the synthesis and application of cosmetic raw materials and related technologies, injecting more vitality into the industry.

Looking forward to good raw materials made in China

The filing information of cosmetic raw materials shows that, excluding the oligopeptide-215 this time, among the 17 new cosmetic raw materials filed in the past year, 9 are from local enterprises, 2 are from joint ventures, and 6 are from foreign-funded enterprises. NMN, which was successfully filed in January this year, has also recently ushered in the solicitation of "group standards". This is obviously a good trend for "Made in China".

At the same time, it can be seen from these 17 new raw materials that there are 10 functional raw materials and 7 auxiliary raw materials. Because the generation of new raw materials is a long process, we can simply understand that local companies not only lead the trend in the development of raw materials, but also follow the trend, and unswervingly follow the functional skin care track.

According to the development trend of the skin care industry, as the upstream raw material sector of skin care products, the core of its development is technological innovation. In recent years, outstanding domestic raw material suppliers such as Bloomage Biotechnology and Vichy Technology have gradually entered the stage. We are well aware that compared with international leaders, domestic cosmetics companies have not yet formed a complete system for R&D and construction due to their shorter development time and weaker capital accumulation. However, with the continuous growth of the enterprise, the strength of the enterprise must be rapidly improved, and Chinese raw materials will inevitably be able to embark on a broader stage.